Puerto Rico - Mexico - Costa Rica
1985
Dear Cha-Wel-Dor-Sue,
Irving
Stone, author of "Lust For Life" (Van Gogh), "Agony And Ecstasy"
(Michelangelo), "The Greek Treasure" (Henry and Sophie Schliemann)
essentially expressed my interest in travel in the following words:
"The need for travel is born into many of us, occurring not too far
down the instinctual ladder from our yearning for love and meaningful
work. The longing to see the world is a creative urge - the desire to
know what other countries look like and how their people live. It is
one of the most rewarding approaches to human experience and
growth."
In
an effort to shorten the "winter" for Pat, we both decided to take
several trips this winter to the southland for this would not only
enable her to minimize her allergic responses to snow and ice but
might also serve to diversify our travel and enhance it's excitement.
We finally decided to visit (1) Puerto Rico in January, using our
Eastern Get-Up-And-Go passport (Puerto Rico is considered within the
confines of the United States), (2) Mexico in February, using a
surprisingly inexpensive A.A.R.P. tour, and (3) Costa Rica in March,
again using our passport to take us as far as Houston, Texas, after
which we utilized a special extended passport flight to Costa Rica.
(4) April posed no problem, as we used our passport again to take us
to and from Florida to enable us to spend two weeks at our
"Time-Share Condo" in Delray Beach, Florida.
Although
we both had been to San Juan, Luquillo Beach, and the El Yunque Rain
Forest, and I had previously been to the Dorado Beach Resort, we both
felt that we did not really know much about the rest of the island of
Puerto Rico, and so, we decided to fly to San Juan, rent a car, and
drive to the most eastern city of Mayaguez. From there, we elected to
spend each night in a different area, usually using the government
recommended paradors. In this manner, we literally completed a
peripheral tour of the island, as well as crossing the mountains on
several occasions. As a consequence of our travels, we came to a new
appreciation of the true beauty of the island and the charm of it's
people. While English and Spanish are the official languages of the
island, English is rarely spoken in the country or in the so-called
out island, and English only in the major hotels and fancy shops.
Though our knowledge of Spanish was not great we had little trouble
getting about or making our wants known.
The
island is small being only 96 miles long from east to west and only
36 miles wide from north to south. The population is only slightly
over 3.2 million and almost half of its people reside in the capital
of San Juan. The government is a freely elected one and is a free
Commonwealth of the United States. A booklet entitled "Que Pasa"
"What's Happening" is available virtually everywhere and lists hotels
of all grades, scenic tours, points of interest, public beaches,
restaurants, shops, etc., all over the island. It was most helpful.
We also used our AAA Guide Book of the Caribbean as it included the
island of Puerto Rico.
Some
of the cities visited were Mayaguez, San German, La Parguero
(Phosphorescent Bay), Ponce, Salinas, Caguas, Barranquitas, Jeyuyu,
Aguadillo, Quebradillas, Arrecibo, Dorado Beach, and, of course, San
Juan. All in all, we returned with a far greater understanding and
appreciation of the island and many of our prejudices removed. When
we were in the mountains and surrounded by the lush and tropical
vegetation, by its farms and cattle ranches and all manner of wild
flowers, we came to understand why the natives love their island as
they do.
Our
A.A.R.P. trip to Mexico included four days in Mexico City, six days
on a bus tour "On the Colonial Trail" and six days in Guadalajara. It
was the Colonial Trail portion of the tour that prompted our return
to Mexico in February.
Having
seen Mexico City on several previous occasions, we elected to spend
the weekend (Friday,Saturday,and Sunday morning) at Raul and Maria
Christina's ranch in Huasca, and we found it largely unchanged from
our previous visits. Raul's children (Raul Jr. and Veronica) were
gone, having married and settled in Mexico City, and their ties to
the ranch have diminished greatly. Raul and Maria drove us all around
the area and we visited several parts that were completely new to us.
We thoroughly enjoyed the relaxed life of a "week end rancher". We
returned to Mexico City on Sunday afternoon in time to freshen up at
the Hotel Prado for us to enjoy the evening's performance of the
Forklorico at the Ballet Artes Theater.
Our
"Colonial Trail" trip or "Through the Heart of Mexico Tour" included
stops at Tula to see the Toltec archaeological ruins, Queretaro, San
Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Morelia, and Patzquaro and its Lake
Janitzio. This six day trip ended in Guadalajara.
The
Colonial area is rich in historical significance and Queretaro one of
the great centers of the independence movement. It is also the site
where Mexico in 1848 ceded half of its territory (California ) to the
United states, and later, where the French emperor, Maximilian, was
executed following his reign in Mexico City. It is a city to see on
foot, and we did so.
San
Miguel de Allende is known throughout the world as an artist and
writer's colony, and has been lovingly restored. It is thoroughly
reminiscent of a Spanish Colonial city. Life centers about the main
square and Cathedral and there are innumerable shops displaying the
arts and craftsmanship of its local artisans. Many Americans choose
to winter here.
Our
next trip was to Guanajuato and it lies in a valley and is also
reminiscent of a small town or village in central Spain. The streets
are narrow and its alley ways narrower still. In fact, I have a
picture of the Callejon del Beso, or "Kisser's Alley" because two
lovers leaning out the windows can exchange kisses. The entire town
has been declared a national monument, and perhaps it's greatest
treasure is the Teatro Juarez, a small theater seating only 350
people. Its interior is a mixture of Art Deco and intricately painted
wall designs, and serves as the center of "The International
Cervantes Festival", a highly acclaimed annual arts event. A second
focus of interest is the city's market, built at the turn of the
century by Porfiro Diaz, a dictator who ruled Mexico from the late
1800's until he was deposed by the turmoil of the revolution in 1910.
It is a metal, barn like structure with a mezzanine of many curio
shops. It is a must for all to see for in it is displayed the basic
economy of the country, its agriculture, arts and crafts, and
manufactured products such as ceramics, leather goods and straw
figures. Finally, in Guana juato, we visited Diego Rivera's
birthplace, and the Alhondiga, or Granary. Time did not permit us to
see the museum within, but the building is a fortress like structure
which was used as a loyalist stronghold in the country's first fight
for independence against Spain. It was here that the four leaders of
the revolution, including Miguel Hidalgo, were incarcerated and later
executed, and their heads were hung on hooks on the four corners of
the building for ten years I The last place we visited in Guanajuato
was the silver mines, situated high on a hill overlooking the city,
the adjacent church, and the mummies, which were displayed in a long
corridor in large glass cases. It reminded us of those we saw in
Egypt. Incidentally, a lovely view of the city can be had from the E1
Pipila Monument honoring a young boy who gave his life for the
insurgent's cause in the revolution of 1810.
After
leaving Guanajuato, we drove to Morelia, the capital of the state of
Michoican.Pat and I had visited Morelia on a previous occasion and at
that time, had stayed at the Casa Montana, a most unusual and unique
inn overlooking the city. The inn and all of its rooms are
distinctive in their own special style of architecture and interior
decor, and the grounds are adorned with classic statues. Only an
artist could have created this fascinating caravansary or inn. On our
visit this time, we spent most of the day in the heart of the city
and around the Cathedral. However, we did view with interest the
remarkable Aqueduct which reminded us of the Roman Aqueduct in
Cordoba, Spain. To retain the city's old world charm, all
construction must conform to the early Spanish Colonial style ;in
this regard it is very much like the program that is required in the
French Quarter or Vieux Carre in New Orleans. The beauty of the past
deserves to be remembered.
After
leaving Morelia, our bus took us to Patzquaro, a site that Pat and I
had also been to previously. Once again, we crossed the lake to the
island of Janitzio, and en route, saw the "Butterfly Nets" used by
the fishermen. While in Patzquaro, we visited the Zocolo, or square,
and fortunately were there on a day when its weekly market was held,
and where the products of the Tarascan Indians were displayed for
sale.
After
leaving Patzquaro, we were off for Guadalajara, a city of
approximately three million, situated at an elevation of 3,500 feet
above sea level, and whose weather is usually described as "Eternal
Spring". Though we had been to "Lahara" previously, this time, we had
six days here and ample opportunity to visit most of the city's
attractions. It's Folklorica, in fact, was more dynamic and exciting
than its counterpart in Mexico City. Since our last visit many things
had changed and had been improved, especially the newly created and
beautiful Plaza Tapatia. It is a walkway lined with lovely shops and
decorated with fountains and flower gardens. It serves to join
Delgallado Theatre [National Theater) and the Cabanas Cultural
Institute. The latter was formerly a children's orphanage but today,
houses all of the works of Jose Clemente Orosco, either as originals
or as photographic reproductions. It is the home of one of Orosco's
major and most powerful frescoes, notably the ''Man Of
Fire".
While
in Guadalajara, we took a bus trip to Tequilla, in the highlands of
Jalisco, where the famous drink is distilled. Every 6 - 8 - 10 years,
the heart of the plant, called the pineapple, is boiled and then
compressed to extract it's sweet juice, which is then fermented and
distilled. It is essentially the same as Mescal from Oaxaca, although
lacking Mescal's worm.
Another
of our tours took us to Tlaquepaque, a suburb of Guadalajara, and a
major center of Mexican crafts, i.e., glassware, porcelain,
furniture, jewelry, etc. It is a must for anyone visiting Guadalajara
and is the city from which the word mariachi is said to have
originated. Mariachis were strolling musicians who usually performed
at marriages. Another site that must be visited in "Lahara" is the
marketplace called Mercado Libertad.
Another
of the highlights of our stay in Guadalajara was the opportunity to
visit a friend and medical colleague, Burr Curtis, and his wife Peg,
and to see their beautiful condominium in the Club de Golf, a
residential community built around a golf course and it's club house
and situated on a hill overlooking the southern aspect of the city.
They enjoy their three months winter sojourn in this beautiful
setting and feel quite safe and secure in their exclusive and well
managed residential community.
En
route home from Mexico, Pat and I decided to get a car in Houston and
drive to both San Antonio and Austin, Texas, which were highly
recommended as cities that we should visit in our explorations of
Texas. When I visited San Antonio many years ago, the chief point of
interest was the Alamo but today, while still retaining its great
interest, the redevelopment along the river is startling and most
attractive. Mayor Cisneros, a Hispanic, has done wonders in
renovating and rehabilitating this city and now, it attracts a great
many tourists annually. Pat and I also wanted to see the capitol of
Texas at Austin and also the beautiful University of Texas campus.
Unfortunately, we did not have time to visit President Johnson's
Library and Museum.
The
month of March found us in Costa Rica, a country I had wanted to
visit for many years. We were prepared for this trip by seeing a
wonderful slide show of Costa Rica by Dr. Carlos Benavides and his
wife Betty, and by reviewing many articles on the country in the
National Geographic Magazine and in Americas, the publication of the
Organization of the American States (O.A.S.), the headquarters of
which Pat and I had visited in Washington, D.C. during a home sitting
operation for Dori while she was in Europe on a "Partners"
project.
Our
first night in Costa Rica was spent in the Grand Hotel, situated in
the heart of the city and adjacent to the beautiful National Theater,
a miniature of the Opera House in Paris. We moved after one night to
the San Carlos Hotel, in order to cut our expenses and because it had
a special charm all of its own. It was developed by one of Costa
Rica's preeminent citizens, an elderly archaeologist, who was
personally responsible for the design and construction of the Jade
Museum in the Social Security Building.
Some
of the highlights of our visit to Costa Rica included a train ride on
the "Jungle Train", a narrow gauge railroad running from San Jose to
Puerto Limon, built by an American' Minor Keith' in the year 1880. We
only went as far as Siquirres, where we visited the world famous
Institute for the Study of Tropical Fauna and Flora. We also drove
down to the Pacific Ocean and visited the town of Punta Arenas, and
en route home, stopped off at the famous woodworking shop at Sarchi,
where the colorful coffee bean carts are manufactured. In addition,
we also visited Cartago, the old capital, Heredia, and Alajuela,
three cities not too distant from San Jose, as well as Moravia, an
immediate suburb which is the center for the leather crafts industry.
Finally, we visited both the Irazu Volcano (inactive at 11,325 feet)
and the mildly active Poas Volcano (9,000 feet). It is said that on a
clear cloudless day, one can stand on the crest of Irazu and see both
the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. This is because of its elevation and
the fact that the entire country is rather narrow at this point and
encompasses an area only as large as the state of West
Virginia.
Finally,
Costa Rica, in addition to its natural beauty and its variegated
flora and fauna and its extraordinary variety of bird life, is
inhabited by people of European stock. Unlike the rest of Central
America, there are literally no native Indians there, all or most of
whom died off when the Spaniards arrived with their diseases of
smallpox, tuberculosis, etc. The government of Costa Rica is modeled
after ours but carries some features a good deal further than we do,
and I am referring specifically to the fact that voting is mandatory
and that a failure to vote is punishable with a fine! Literacy in
Costa Rica is the highest in Central America and there is a large
middle class. Costa Rica, incidentally, has no Army, and its laws are
respected and enforced. There is, by the way, no capital punishment
regardless the degree of heinousness or bestiality of the crime. When
we left, we realized we had left unseen the entire state of
Guanacaste, the site of a thriving cattle industry, nor did we see
the beautiful beaches and resorts on the Pacific Coast. Some day,
perhaps, we will revisit this beautiful country and hopefully can at
that time turn northward and visit Salvador, Nicaragua, Honduras, and
Guatemala. The political situation today, however, must change
considerably before this would be a safe trip and our welfare
secure.
April
found us in Delray Beach, Florida, at our time share condominium.
This year, we spent our entire two weeks in our "Berkshire By The
Sea" in order that we might have sufficient time to entertain my
brother Ken and his wife Ruth, who were visiting in Florida. Dori
flew in from Washi °ngton, D.C., after concluding a demanding
Conference on the Economics of the Amenities in Indianapolis,
Indiana, and my son Ted and his wife Lynda with my grandsons Chuckie
and Mark also spent the week-end with us. On the two previous years,
we chose to exchange one of our weeks for a week's visit in New
Orleans and on another occasion for a week's visit in Santa Fe, New
Mexico. Hopefully, next year we can exchange for similar facilities
possibly in Wales or Scotland. Our plans are most indefinite at this
time. However, it has been said that "A man's goal should extend
beyond his reach", and Pat and I may well be planning beyond any
reasonable expectations.
With Love,
Dad
or